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venčanica Džeki Kenedi
Foto: KEYSTONE Pictures USA / Zuma Press / Profimedia

U trenutku kad je 12. septembra 1953. ušetala u Crkvu svete Marije kako bi rekla "da" Džonu F. Kenediju, venčanica Džeki Kenedi je zauvek promenila svet mode specifičnim dekolteom koji otkriva ramena i širokim, raskošnim donjim delom bogatim karnerima.

Haljine koje prate oblik venčanice Džeki Kenedi danas su klasika, međutim upravo je kreacija dizajnerke En Lov otvorila svet mode za takve modele. I to nije jedina zanimljivost o ovoj haljini koja se danas čuva u muzeju.

Džeki Kenedi
Džeki Kenedi na venčanju; Foto: Ronnie Paloger / Zuma Press / Profimedia

Prvo, Džeki navodno nije želela venčanicu tog tipa, nije htela da “izgleda kao abažur”, piše GH. Ona je htela nešto mnogo ležernije i jednostavnije, u skladu s tadašnjom pariskom modom, ali njen budući svekar to nije odobrio. On je želeo nešto tradicionalnije, a kreatorka En Lov našla je način da pomiri njihova očekivanja i – lansira novi trend.

En Lov je važila za talentovanu dizajnerku koja pomera granice. Radila je za neke od najbogatijih porodica, uključujući Rokfelere i Ruzveltove i bila prva tamnoputa dizajnerka visoke mode u Americi. Međutim, uprkos svom uspehu i sjajnim delima, En se tokom karijere suočavala sa rasizmom i diskriminacijom.

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“Ms. Lowe is historically extraordinary. She was this wonderful lady who had come from the South in the 1950s and created clothes for all the Park Avenue socialites. Society women all up and down the Eastern Seaboard were dressed by Ann Lowe. She designed the gown Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis wore when she wed John F. Kennedy in Hyannis Port, Massachusetts, in 1953.”
 On occasion of the re-release of an online tour of “Black Fashion Designers”, the exhibition held at @museumatfit, Bazaar US spoke with the legendary fashion editor @andreltalley, voice of the tour, and Elizabeth Way, curator of the exposition. • #Repost @bazaaritalia “Lowe è stata importantissima, era una donna del sud negli anni Cinquanta, creava abiti per le signore sofisticate di Park Avenue, ha disegnato l'abito da sposa che Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis ha indossato per sposare John F. Kennedy a Hyannis Port, Massachusetts, nel 1953. Ha imparato a cucire guardando la nonna, creando dal nulla.” In occasione del rilascio del tour virtuale di “Black Fashion Designers”, la mostra tenutasi al The Museum presso il Fashion Institute of Technology, Bazaar US ha intervistato il leggendario fashion editor André Leon Talley, voce del tour, e Elizabeth Way, curatrice dell’esposizione. • Read the full interview on Harpersbazaar.com/it. Interview by: Allison S. Cohn Image: Ann Lowe adjusting her creation worn by Alice Baker in 1962. #bazaaritalia #bazaartv #annlowe #blackfashiondesigners

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Čak i kad su Džeki Kenedi novinari pitali ko joj je napravio venčanicu, pokojna prva dama je navodno odgovorila da je to uradila “obojena šnajderka”. Bela kuća je posle pokušala da povuče članak, a Džekina sekretarica potrudila se da “ispegla” stvar kod En.

En je, s druge strane, izjavljivala da je Džeki bila uvek “slatka” prema njoj, a navodno joj nikad nije priznala koliko ju je ovaj posao koštao.

Naime, venčanica Džeki kenedi zapravo je napravljena kao zamena za originalnu kreaciju.

Prva venčanica je, zajedno s haljinama za deveruše, uništena u poplavi kad je u Eninom njujorškom studiju pukla cev. To se desilo samo deset dana pred venčanje, a En je na toj haljini radila osam nedelja. Nakon incidenta, morala je sa svojim timom da radi danonoćno kako bi uspela da završi novu venčanicu na vreme.

Pročitajte još:

Nacionalni muzej američke istorije navodi da je haljina trebalo da košta oko 700 dolara, ali je nakon svega dizajnerka bila na gubitku od 2.200 dolara (danas je to oko 21.000 dolara).

Ipak, njen naporni rad se isplatio – haljina je u trenutku ušla u istoriju, iako nije na listi najskupljih venčanica svih vremena.

Džeki je od nakita nosila bisernu ogrlicu i dijamantsku narukvicu, a čipkasti veo je bio od njene bake. Bidermajer je bio napravljen od belih i ružičastih orhideja i gardenija.

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✨Remembering Former First Lady Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy & Her Iconic Wedding Dress, On What would Have Been Her 90th Birthday!🌹✨I've been reading a lot about the designer of the beautiful wedding dress, her name was Ann Lowe, and an African-American designer favored by her wealthy, "society page"clients for her couture quality gowns. It was one of those clients, Janet Lee Bouvier, Jacqueline's mother, who hired Ms. Lowe to design the dress for her daughter's 1953 society wedding to John F. Kennedy. She'd previously designed the dresses for Janet's wedding to Hugh Auchincloss, and she knew Lowe would due justice to the occasion. Jacqueline's dress almost didn't make it to the wedding, as Lowe's shop became flooded, destroying the wedding dress, and the attendants dresses. The designer and her staff worked around the clock for eight days to remake, and complete the dresses. Ms. Lowe, was the daughter of a former slave, and dressmaker, who made dresses for her master's family, and taught Ann the craft. Sadly Lowe never received proper credit for her the iconic dress design, or her contributions to Fashion during her lifetime. Fortunately, The Smithsonian Museum of African-American History has added an exhibit of Lowe's designs.🌹Her amazing attention to detail, trademark fabric flowers, and gowns as beautiful on the inside as they were on the outside were her aesthetic. I was happy to learn that Jacqueline kept in contact with the designer, over the years! I encourage anyone interested to learn more about her, and her forgotten story! Beautiful dress, Brilliant Designer!🌹✨✌🏾❤️👰🏻👩🏾‍💼👗✨#happybirthday #jacquelinekennedy #jackiekennedy #geek #chicgeek #weddingdress #wedding #bride #bridal #weddingphotography #annlowe #blackgirlmagic #blackfashiondesigner #fashiondesigner #untoldstory #fashion #designerdress #iconic #famousdress #beautiful #societywedding #johnfkennedy #thekennedys #americanroyalty #history #ilovefashion

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This Repost by @rachel.elspeth.gross certainly causes me the sting of Alabama segregation and racial division, but rising from the low point in my home state’s history comes exquisite beauty and gifts. I didn’t know about this graceful, humble and talented woman until this morning, and the fact that she didn’t receive credit for her talent and accomplishments at the time is gut-wrenchingly sad. Here is the quick read story of Ann Lowe, a beautiful and gifted woman, from Alabama. ・・・ Today’s Inspiration: Ann Lowe
Ann Cole Lowe was an American fashion designer, and one of the first African American designers to receive international acclaim for her work. Born in 1898 in Alabama, the great granddaughter of a slave and plantation owner. Lowe learned to sew early in life; both her mother and grandmother worked as seamstresses. Ann Lowe’s mother died when Lowe was 16; at the time of her death she had been working on ballgowns commission by Alabama’s First Lady. Lowe finished the dresses. In 1917 Lowe attended S.T. Taylor design school in NYC, as the school was segregated, she was forced to attend her classes in a separate room from white students, alone. Around 1920 Lowe opened her first salon, ‘Annie Cohen’. At various times Lowe worked on commission for Henry Bendel, Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. Her second salon was called Ann Lowe’s Gowns. In 1953, Lowe designed the wedding dress that Jacqueline Bouvier wore when she married (then) senator John F Kennedy. She was NOT given public credit for the work. Lowe designed gowns for Olivia de Havilland, various Rockefellers, Posts and Du Ponts as well as Janet Auchincloss, mother of Jacqueline Bouvier.
Due to the development of glaucoma and cataracts, her vision declined, and she eventually lost an eye. Lowe retired in 1972. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• #AnnLowe #AnnColeLowe #AnnLowGowns #AnnLowesGowns #AnnieCohen #AfricanAmerican #AmericanDesigner #AfricanAmericanDesigner #WomenWhoDesign #FashionDesigner #FashionHistory #CostumeDesign #CostumeHistory #HistoryOfDress #WomensWear #DressHistory #MadeToMeasure #Atelier #Bespoke #AmericanFashion #TodaysInspiration

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